The Perfect Ribbing Cast On Method - Twisted Tubular

Ribbing is a staple technique for any knitter. Cuffs, hems, necklines, pretty much any knitted creation might benefit from a row of ribbing to keep edges from rolling up and to provide a stretchy band to keep garments in place. 

Casting on with the standard cast on methods can cause some unwanted tightening of stitches, this can cause edges to become drawn in and tight and can lead to unsightly stretching of your purl and knits giving you inconsistent columns of ribbing. 

The tubular cast on method gives a neat and even ribbing by creating a temporary row of cast on stitches which can be removed. Once the initial cast on row is unravelled and removed the column of rib stitches are left standing proud. I am using Cygnet Seriously Chunky Wool in Navy blue. 

I like to combine this tubular cast on method with the twisted stitch rib to make strong, straight lines of ribbing. Here is my method: 

What you will need: 

·         wool for your project

·         knitting needles 

·         a length of scrap wool, ideally a different  colour to your project wool, long enough to cast on 

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

wyif – with yarn in front

tbl – through back loop

sl – slip stitch as through to knit

slp – slip stitch as through to purl

Step 1

Using your scrap wool, cast on half the number of stitches you require plus 1, e.g if you require 48 stitches for your pattern cast on 25 stitches, if you need 41 stitches cast on 21 stitches. You can cast on using whichever method you prefer, e.g. long tail cast on. 

Step 2

Using your project wool join your wool and begin the following sequence: 

Knit 1, yarn over (yo), knit 1, yo, repeat to the end of the row

You will now have double the number of stitches on your needle.

Step 3

You now begin your rib stitches, these will form the edge of your work once your scrap thread is removed:

Slip 1 purlwise with your yarn in front (slp wyif), knit 1 through back loop (k1 tbl), repeat these two stitches to the end of the row

Each time you slip a stitch with the yarn in front and move back to knit the next stitch a band of yarn is drawn across the stitch below, these are encasing your edges.

Step 4

Knit 1, slip 1 purlwise through the back loop with yarn in front (slp tbl wyif), repeat these two stitches to the end of the row.

You are now working slip stitches on the other sidehalf of the stitches but working the twisted stitches on the same stitches.

Step 5

Repeat step 3

Step 6

Repeat step 4

Your preparation rows are now complete and you are ready to start your regular ribbing

Step 7

Continue your ribbing pattern as above but do not slip your purl stitches, as follows:

Row 1: Purl 1, knit 1 tbl, repeat these two stitches to the end of the row

Row 2: Knit 1, purl 1 tbl, repeat these two stitches to the end of the row

Repeat these rows until you have the desired length of ribbing.

If your pattern asks for an even number of stitches your cast on will have left you with an extra stitch, you can remove this extra stitch with a decrease stich when you work your first row following ribbing.

Step 8

Once your ribbing is complete, or you have completed enough rows that your work is secure, you can remove the cast on scrap thread.

Begin at the loose end of your cast on thread, carefully unknot the thread and begin to pull the thread loose.

Unlike a provisional cast on the thread will not easily unravel when pulled, you will need to carefully pull the thread free from each stitch. With a long cast on your thread will be very long and pulling the thread through each stitch can be quite time consuming not to mention frustrating! In this case you can carefully cut the cast on thread; this will allow you to pull shorter lengths of thread free of the stitches.

Once your cast on thread is removed you will be left with neatly separate columns of ribbing. The twisted stitches created by working through the back loop make the ribs stand out in neat, tight columns.

Here is my latest cast on, this will be the bottom edge of a jumper. The super chunky wool makes the stitches even more apparent.

This is the front of the work - the right side

This is the back of the work - the wrong side

Thanks for reading, I would love to hear your thoughts on this method!